I picked up the phone and dialed to order one of my favorite meals from one of my favorite restaurants in downtown Harrisonburg, Pad Thai from Beyond. As the phone made its first and only ring, an item I had never seen before on the menu caught my eye: “Angry Pasta (Spicy).” Briefly scanning the description as I prepared to place my original order gave me a moment of hesitation, and when the employee on the other end of the line asked what I wanted to order, the words “Angry Pasta” flew out of my mouth before I had a chance to even think about it. “Korean + Thai chili paste, Thai basil, garlic, and vegetables” were all I had to base my 3-second opinion on, and of course, the gentle warning “Spicy” written into the name of the dish. 

The smell of sharp, warm spice filled the inside of my car on the way home from Beyond, seeping out of the carry-out container and plastic bag it was wrapped in. I noticed the weighty heft of the bag as I carried it into my apartment, a good sign for sure. 

I opened the box to reveal my first impressions of my Sunday lunch and was greeted first and foremost by the abundance of color coming from the veggies and sauce. Green beans, yellow summer squash, deep green Thai basil, orange carrots, and all wrapped in a red haze from the spicy chili paste coating everything and collecting in a puddle at the bottom of the container. I was also a little surprised to see penne pasta as the base rather than what I had been expecting as some type of Korean or Thai noodles.

I wasted no time preparing a plate for myself, and as I took the first bite, I could feel the heat coming. The chili wasn’t a quick burn that twists up the tongue, but rather a slow heat, building with each successive bite of pasta dripping with the dark red sauce. 

I think if I am honest I would have preferred a different pasta rather than penne for this dish. I thought the flavor was fine, but it certainly didn’t add anything special to the overall meal for me. I think something like rice noodles or another stir fry noodle variety might have better absorbed the flavors of the chili paste and garlic. Penne with the addition of garlic and Thai basil made the dish seem a little bit more Italian than I had been expecting, and I don’t think that worked particularly well with the Asian fusion flavors Beyond is typically so talented at showcasing. 

The redeeming factor in this meal was the tofu. I’m not normally a big tofu guy, but I can’t go to Beyond without getting a meal that includes their skillfully crafted version of the normally typical bean curd. It appears to be deep fried, although without the sometimes off-putting background flavor of oil, with a lightly crispy outer layer and almost marshmallowy light texture on the inside. Absorbing whatever flavors it is paired with, it retains the beautiful texture but tastes a little different in every dish. 

Ultimately, I don’t know that I would choose the Angry Pasta when I go to Beyond the next time, but I wasn’t pushed away for good, and there will still certainly be a next time.